My belated ball gown

I can't believe Opera Ball was almost a month ago! I got my dress finished in time, but didn't get a photo taken that night. It was just too crazy! I should have though, on the grand staircase of the majestic San Francisco City Hall where the event was held. That week was pretty insane. I work in education, not events, so my workload was totally unrelated to the ball and we had a couple issues pop up at the end of the week. Dealing with that while being pulled in the other direction for my added event responsibilities left me little time to care about how I actually looked. Besides, I was just scurrying around checking attendees in, folding napkins, checking place cards and seating charts, trying in vain to get people to sit down for dinner, cleaning up volunteer meals, schlepping boxes back to the office at 2am, and so on. It's hard work!

I ended up making Vogue 1176, an OOP Michael Kors pattern. I added a gathered skirt with big pockets to store my phone, badge, and keys, and these pockets were the envy of every one of my coworkers. Seriously, you could see the look of longing appear on their faces as they noticed me whipping my phone out! The dress served its purpose, but I don't feel very sophisticated. I think the combination of the too-short skirt, the wide straps, and, well, maybe the pockets too make it feel a little frumpy.

I also had some trouble making this dress. First, I ran out of fabric! I had bought four yards, which seemed like an infinite amount. I usually make a dress using no more than two yards of fabric, since I'm short and on the smaller side, and I really didn't think that a long, full skirt would take that much extra fabric. I wanted the skirt to be cut in an A-line shape with gathering at the top, so that it would have a pretty full skirt by my shoes to keep them hidden. That was absolutely not going to happen, and this skirt not only isn't full enough to not show my shoes, but it's also too short. I didn't want to step on it, but I think it needs another couple inches at least.

Then the bodice... it was fun to put together, and for a 100% polyester fabric it was pressing pretty well. But then I tried it on and realized it was really big. Too big to just take in at the side seams. Everyone always talks about the extra ease in McCall, Butterick, Vogue, and Simplicity patterns, and I'm always skeptical because I tend to sew Simplicity and Burda and I have never, ever had a problem with excess ease in a Simplicity pattern. I might become a believer when it comes to Vogue, though. I had to take it in three whole inches at the waist, and could easily take in another inch, and also took it in about one inch at the bust. The alterations were distributed through the side and back seams, but I couldn't really take it in on the front due to the design and you can tell. It's pretty baggy under the bust. I feel like the fit is acceptable, but it was problematic and I don't really care about making another version to figure out all that was wrong.

I still love the color (more gray, less deep purple than the photos show) and the draped detail of the bodice, and I think I'm going to cut the skirt to knee-length to make it into a cocktail dress that I think will be much more successful.

Color Blocked

This dress has been finished for about a month, but for some reason I've been having trouble writing this post. Maybe it's because I'm just not all that excited about the dress.

I actually was excited when planning this project. I ordered some double knits from Fabric Mart during a 50% off sale, with the idea that I need a few basic work dresses that will withstand my bike commute. I didn't like the actual color of the blue or purple fabrics when they arrived, but seeing the three fabrics stacked together inspired me to combine them, using Simplicity 1665, a design I was very much drawn to.

Image from Pattern Review

I just don't think it's that flattering in real life. The yoke and straps don't look all that great, and there is absolutely no bust shaping. It's not a bad dress, but it was definitely disappointing.

It was so cold and windy! Brrr...

It is a very serviceable work dress, though, and I do like it more paired with a cardigan.

I do own more than one pair of shoes... these are just my favorites!

So, there you go. It's not a great dress, but it's not a fail either. Meh.

Thanks for all the encouraging comments on my Vogue dress! I'm itching to finish it, but today is my personal deadline for starting that gown. Just three weekends left!

Working basics

Lately I've been inspired to make some simple, versatile work clothes that can withstand being thrown into a tote for my hilly, windy bike commute, and it seemed like a good time to finally make a pencil skirt out of this remnant of nearly-black denim I've been stashing for at least two years.

I used McCall's 5590, which is now OOP despite being wildly popular a few years ago. I made this skirt back in the day, and though the skirt fit well I decided that I like my skirts to have a waistband, and I never really expected to make it again. Well, apparently waistbands take a tiny bit more fabric than no waistbands, and I just didn't have enough fabric this time! This pattern is really worth keeping around for those scraps of skirt-weight fabric leftover from another project.

Image from Pattern Review

I don't have that first skirt anymore, and I totally forgot how high the waistline is on this pattern! Super high waists were trendy a few years ago, and it didn't bother me at all back then. Now I think it looks kind of silly, especially since I'm on the small side. Oh well, this will only rarely be worn with anything tucked in and the slight stretch in the fabric makes it super comfortable. It's interesting how styles change so quickly!

No side, back, detail, or shots that show the ridiculously high waist - I was lucky to get photos at all! July has been so busy over here, and my sweet photographer and I see each other so rarely these days that blog photos are not exactly a priority. I don't expect my blogging to magically improve in frequency or quality anytime soon, but I do hope to at least start commenting on your blogs again - that's the reason I started blogging in the first place!

In closing - have you ever made a pattern for a second time several years after retiring your first make, only to discover that the style that you thought suited you just doesn't work as well as you remember?

Amateur Costumer

I've been kept busy at work these last few weeks with our conservatory program (more like a day camp, really), which culminated in a performance of a short opera last night. The students and staff all did so well - I was very, very proud to be working for this organization! As happens when putting on shows, the last week was a bit frantic and our costumer asked for some sewing help on a few of the costumes. It was my first time doing any sort of costuming, and I quickly learned to lower my construction standards, stitch as fast as humanly possible, and embrace polyester and sparkles.

I just hemmed this, but isn't it the coolest fabric? It's the sort of thing that you could never use in everyday life, but it's SO perfect for use as a fairy tale costume! It really looked amazing on stage.

I hemmed and made casings for four pairs of knickers, hemmed a robe, made a skirt start to finish, and then stitched numerous sparkle trims, buttons, and so on by hand on location. The robe and skirt sewing occurred late at night, and these photos were all taken in the wee, small hours of Thursday morning, hence the poor lighting and disheveled look. I'm glad this sort of frenzied sewing doesn't happen too much, but it was really fun to be a part of it all!

I made this one! Simple, floor-length pleated skirt.

It's also fun to have a job where my sewing skills really do come in handy. I've always totally ignored costume patterns and fabrics, but now I'm thinking a few basic patterns may need to make their way to my collection, just in case!

The party's crashing us

Finally, photos are taken! I made this dress on a whim the weekend before last to wear to a cocktail party for work the following Wednesday. It had been quite some time since I made a dress, and everything was going pretty well until suddenly it wasn't. I was up late Tuesday night scrambling to finish, but the dress was completed just in time and I'm pretty happy with it.

Image from Pattern Review

I used Simplicity 1610, which is one of the new summer patterns, and I highly recommend it! I chose the pattern because of the basic design, the sleeves, and, above all, the pockets. I've worked enough functions, though not quite such fancy ones, in past jobs to know that I want to have a place to stash my badge, phone, keys, and so on. The dress was very straightforward to put together, and the troubles I had weren't the fault of the pattern at all.

I cut a 10 at the bust and graded to a 12 at the waist, which is normal for me, with no other alterations except that I sewed the back seam with a 3/8" SA because I was afraid of it being too small. I usually construct dresses so that the side seams are the last to be sewn in order to adjust fit, but since I've never set in sleeves with a pivot point like this I didn't want a bunch of dress hanging down on that step. Next time I'll sew the regular seam allowance, as this dress is a little too big, but that actually turned out to be a good thing because I can just slip it over my head without a zipper. It's also super comfortable, and since staff kind of blends into the background at these events, I don't really care that there's a bit too much ease.

So, it's a great dress, and I'm sure I'll wear it to functions like this all the time. That said, I'm going to try to never, ever sew anything in a satin again. The fabric didn't look all that shiny in the store next to the other JoAnn satins, but the more I sewed it the shinier it looked and the more I noticed that it shows every little wrinkle, flaw, stitch, and even the pinked edges of the wispy acetate lining that I used as a facing. To make matters worse, even though the bolt said it was 40% cotton, this fabric pressed like 100% polyester. I felt more and more trepidation about the zipper insertion, and as suspected it was a total disaster. I ended up just trying to squeeze into it without a zipper, and thanks to that 3/8" SA I could. Phew. Even though staff blends in, I didn't want my dress to look so totally homemade among the attendees' designer dresses!

I had forgotten how much fun it is to make dresses, but I also forgot how much I dislike sewing under pressure. I'm not one of those people who can whip up a garment in a few hours, and I like to take my time, go slow, and finish things nicely. There will be more of these parties and other events through the year, and I'm looking forward to making a few pretty dresses that are actually well-made!

Big, Bright Flowers

Hooray for a finished item that definitely works! I've been perfecting a slim pants pattern, and I needed to renew my enthusiasm with a quick and easy project almost certain to turn out well.

Image from Pattern Review

I used Simplicity 1693, and it turned out beautifully with no fitting issues at all, not that the fit is super important for this style. The collar turned out nicely and the back opening is a pretty detail, but it's totally unnecessary because the top goes over my head easily. My only disappointment with the pattern is that it doesn't include guides to cut bias to the appropriate length for the neck and arm holes, instead instructing sewists to use purchased bias tape. All other Simplicity patterns I've used have included a bias facing piece, and though I know I can figure out the length and cut my own bias, it's an extra step that I got used to not doing. I do appreciate that Simplicity tends to favor a bias finish instead of facing either way, though, especially since this is a good pattern for beginners. When I started sewing it was all facings all the time, and ugh, I was disgusted that facings were the method for finishing homemade clothes instead of the clean RTW finish. Thank goodness for the sewing blogs that soon introduced me to bias tape!

Thread loop made from pearl cotton

The fabric is a rayon challis purchased around New Year's for $2/yd during a Fabric Mart sale. It's a beautiful fabric - easy to sew and press, lovely to wear, perfect drape. The only thing is that it's a little too bright and wild for me. I knew that before buying it, but it was such a good price! I figured I could use it to test out a new pattern at least, and at best it would help me feel a bit more comfortable in bigger, brighter prints. We'll see how much it gets worn, but at least it's a bit more toned down under a cardigan!

Have you ever bought a piece fabric you knew didn't match your personality or style because it was good quality and a good price? Did you end up wearing the resulting garment much?

Finished: A Vintage Floral Scout

I just love this shirt! I've been admiring great versions of this top all over the internet, and finally got around to making my own. The Scout Tee is a really great pattern. Quick, well-drafted, sleeves are seriously easy to set in, and though loose fitting, the shape of the shirt is really quite flattering. The sleeves are the best cut I have come across yet, and the top even looks cute on a hanger! This was my first Grainline pattern, so I cut a size up just in case the bust measurements reflect a bigger cup size (my first experience with a Colette pattern taught me a lesson!), but I ended up taking it in a bit and in the future will go down a size.

Line drawing found here.

I bought this fabric a couple years ago at Winmil Fabrics in Boston after falling in love the moment I laid eyes on it. It cost a bit more than I usually spend on fabric, and I had to buy a whole three yards due to Winmil's remnant policy, but there was simply no question about its coming home with me.

I've been waiting endlessly for the perfect project to use this fabric, and it was unpacking my grandma's china with its similar floral pattern that provided the inspiration to just make a quick top. Somehow I was lucky enough to end up with this set of china that my grandma acquired in the early 1950's. My mom kept the set in storage for me during our Boston adventure, and it was so fun to get the whole set out and marvel at its beauty now that we're home in California. I'm in possession of such riches...

This is a decidedly casual top. I wore it to work last week and it just felt wrong with work pants! I enjoy having special, casual weekend tops though, and this one is absolutely perfect.

Finished: It's a chalk bag!

I have a finished item to show! I made this chalk bag (for rock climbing) for my sister-in-law's birthday. I was scrambling to finish it at the last minute and forgot to take a photo - this blog thing is still new to me. Luckily, the happy recipient took a quick instagram photo with the "wrapping paper" bow still on, though, so that will have to do! The color is much more of a spring green in real life.

I used the free "Better than Basic Chalk Bag" pattern that Meg highlighted a few weeks ago when she made her cute chalk bags. The pattern turned out well and looks surprisingly professional, but I did puzzle over a few of the instructions, especially at the chalk cover part. I also put the grommet (my first one!) on the wrong side somehow? I checked and double-checked, gah. I grew up with rock-climber parents and chalk bags have just always been around, so it was really fun to see how these things are actually constructed. 

I do have some notes for future versions, which there may be. The instructions say to use a heavy jersey for the chalk cover, but I would say medium weight is better. The drawstring needs to close up tightly so no chalk comes out and you have to really pull with my heavy fabric. It also made the top edge so thick that I couldn't stitch the nylon webbing down with my machine, which slowed my pace down to a crawl. Hopefully my handstitching holds up!

frosting for a new life

There's a lot of discussion out there about "cake" and "frosting" clothes, with many people saying they sew way too much frosting. I've always been the opposite, and sew way too much cake. I know that sounds like a good thing, and I do get a lot of wear out of the clothes I make, but sometimes I wish I were inclined to make pretty, flowery dresses too!

All cake and no frosting = boring.

For the last few years I have worked in a business casual office in New England, and wore mostly skirts and dresses with cardigans. Does it sound like I looked like a librarian? Because I actually was one, but unfortunately wasn't really all that cute and retro. Then we moved back home to California a few months ago (yay!) and I'm working from home, and I have nothing to wear. I still love dresses, but is it worth it to wear out tights while just at home? Is that an ascetic question?

Regardless, it's time for pants, pretty tops, comfy sweaters, and flats. Which really means, besides the pants part, it's time to sew frosting! I envision a closet full of pretty, relaxed blouses and camisoles, and thanks to a huge Fabric Mart sale earlier this year, this is going to be a reality!

On to pattern testing:*

Simplicity 2211

I made this blouse a couple months ago as a test run for S2211, the Lisette Market blouse. I had really high hopes, but sadly this top just doesn't work for me. It's so big in the back; I had to put in darts, take in the sides, and it's still not right. The top part fits okay, though, so maybe I can figure something out. In my disappointment about this top, though, I suddenly remembered that I have this one shoved in the back of my closet:

Simplicity 2593

I made this, oh, two years ago? I loved the fabric and it turned out well, but it had a twisted collar that looked terrible under a sweater, so I never actually wore it. Two minutes with the seam ripper, and I have exactly the sort of top that I've been coveting! I want to try these new patterns as well.

Views D, E, C minus the elastic

Peplums aren't out yet, are they?

Love everything Jen does

*i guess blog rules say your pictures should be the same width and fill the entire width of the column. sorry. not yet. maybe someday.